I broke two rules on this trip: one was visiting somewhere I’ve already been. The second we don’t talk about. But a rule isn’t a rule unless ‘there’s always an exception’. Plus, on the first rendezvous I stayed entirely around Cape town; this time was basically everything else. And I was up against a ballooning plague - that certainly adds novelty.
The following destinations were strung together over a week’s course, though they each hold enough merit to be done individually as detours from whichever part of the country you make your hub. Typically I include a ‘How to get around’ section, but across the board these areas require a vehicle; and a robust vehicle at that. You’ll either be driving on some of the nicest roads You’ve ever seen in the Global South, or you’re weaving through potholes on dirt roads large enough to be graves. (I maintain that Philly still has the worst roads in the world, though).
If dry heat and arid conditions are your thing, the Cederberg checks all the boxes. Or, if you’re preparing to move to Mars, it simulates that environment quite well (except for the whole having oxygen thing). The Cederberg is within driving distance from Cape Town and offers a wide range of activities from climbing to wine tasting.
- Where to stay: Kromrivier located in Cederberg Park has accommodation that spans the gamut so there’s something for everyone. Choose from (luxury) camping, a cottage, or a bougie chalet, all of which are located within the farmstead. There’s onsite wifi, a restaurant, microbrewery, and supply shop (with Kromrivier wine) for your convenience.
- What to do:
- Hike the Wolfberg Cracks (3.1 miles) early in the morning, or one of the many other hikes around Cederberg Park. Be sure to inquire about access fees and gate codes.
- Look at ancient San rock art. Like 1000 years ancient, made by the Bushmen that lived in the Cederberg for over 500,000 years.
- There’s also infrastructure for climbing, horseback riding, wine tasting, mountain biking, and stargazing. Inquire accordingly!
On the other hand if you’re psychotic like me and enjoy humidity (so long as it’s not matched with excessive heat), then the Drakensberg is your place! Located on the opposite coast, it couldn’t be more different than the Western Cape: excessively green, wet, and humid.
- Where to stay:
- Fancy pants option: Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge also offers accommodation on a sliding scale from ‘hikers cabins’ to upscale rooms with a view. Truthfully you can’t escape the gorgeous views here though. Step outside from anywhere and take in the majesty of the northern Drakensberg mountains and Sentinel Peak. Take advantage of the dining and spa here in between the many hikes at your doorstep.
- Budget option: Amphitheatre Backpackers caters to a younger crowd and accommodation starts at camping spots and goes up to private rooms. The amenities are not to be overlooked - pool, jacuzzi, sauna, laundry, gift shop, bar, ample common space for socializing, and guided activities just scratch the service. Oh, and spectacular views as the cherry on top!
- What to do:
- Sentinal Chain Ladder hike: This solid half-day hike (for those in shape) offers the full spectrum of steep switchbacks, leisurely flat stretches, and fun ladder climbing. Guides can be arranged through Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge.
- Hike, climb, abseil, trek (and more) with guided half-day to multi-day excursions organized by Amphitheatre Backpackers. Prices are very reasonable and if you’ve got the know-how, and don’t need a guide, but don’t have wheels - they offer shuttles to get you to where you want to be.
And finally, if you want to see an entire country in 24 hours, drive through Lesotho and spend the night in Semonkong! Except don’t do this when there’s a ballooning pandemic and constant changes in travel restrictions, as border security won’t take too kindly to Americans who are awful at preventing transmission of highly contagious viruses…
- Where to stay: Semonkong Lodge is one of the coolest places I’ve ever stayed and I wish I could have stayed a full week. While the drive to the lodge will have you wondering what you’ve gotten yourself into (and whether your car tires are going to make it out alive), the experience once you’ve arrived is more than worth it. Rooms are built in the traditional Lesotho style as rondavels made of thatch and stone. The property feels like an enchanted forest, serves the most delectable bread-type thing on the planet, and organizes guided activities that are worth so much more than the minuscule fees they conjure.
- What to do:
- Visit Maletsunyane Falls, one of the the largest waterfalls in Africa
- Buy yourself a magic blanket, AKA the traditional woolen Basotho blanket worn by Soto people. It may not be quite as magical as Harry Potter’s invisibility cloak, but it’s damn close.
