Banff, Alberta CA

One day I saw a picture of Banff and I thought it was really beautiful, so I googled whether there were any hostels in Banff, and if they have a public transit system. Both were a yes and the trip was born in under 10 minutes. Winter in Banff is truly the most magical and cozy winter wonderland-esque destination I could ever imagine. You definitely do not need to be a big-time skier or snowboarder to have a most enjoyable time. However one thing you do absolutely need is adequate winter gear… Banff winter makes Minnesota winter look like chum.


WHERE TO STAY

Banff International Hostel has been one of my favorite hostels to date. Overall, it is well-run, clean and has a great crew of people (staff and guests alike) - I met some great friends here! See below for how to get here from Calgary International Airport.
Highlights: Each dorm has lockers, an en suite bathroom, reading lights at each bed, and a fridge. The front desk is open 24 hours/day and has an ATM - super convenient for the non-Canadians. The Banff Avenue Liquor Store is located within the hostel if that’s your jam. If you are skiing/snowboarding, there is storage at the hostel and the shuttle to Sunshine stops in front of the hostel. Most importantly, there is free delicious wholesome breakfast everyday!
Downsides: Their online booking system does not accept Visa debit which may be problematic for some. Otherwise, I’m hard-pressed to think of any cons.
Price: $30.90/night (USD) for a 6-8 bed mixed dorm.


HOW TO GET AROUND

Calgary -> Banff: Getting from Calgary to Banff (takes about an hour and a half) isn’t very complicated or expensive. I opted to take the Banff Airporter directly from the airport into Banff. The one-way ticket cost ~$50 USD (plus driver tip) and is well-worth the convenience (IMO) because you don’t have to leave the Calgary airport once you arrive, you get dropped off wherever you are staying in Banff, and it’s a comfortable ride. Banff is a part of a National Park, so you should be sure to purchase a park pass before arriving or upon arrival.
Around Banff: It is ridiculously easy to get around town and to all the major destinations like Sulphur Mountain, Tunnel Mountain and Lake Louise using the Roam bus system. You can track the buses in real time on their website. One-way fare is $2, or buy a day pass for $5. The buses accept USD and CAD but only offer change vouchers, so exact change is preferred. The ‘downtown’ area itself is also small enough that it’s reasonable to walk most places, which let’s you soak in the views too.
Banff -> Calgary: Unfortunately, the return trip is not as budget friendly to take Banff Airporter again (~$100). An alternative option I found was to take a Greyhound bus from Banff into Calgary, and then take an Uber from downtown Calgary to the airport. (I paid $26 for the bus, but this pricing varies). The Greyhound station in Banff is centrally located and within walking distance from the hostel (roughly 15 minutes). Sadly, Greyhound is canceling all services in Canada at the end of October this year.


WHAT TO DO

Tunnel Mountain hike: Tunnel Mountain is a 2.4 mile (3.7 km) out-and-back with views of the Bow River and the town of Banff from the summit. It’s a super accessible and popular hike since the trail head is only a few steps from town, not to mention a good hike to get adjusted to the altitude before taking on more strenuous hikes. The first time I went up, the visibility was poor, so I went back a few days later with better luck. Definitely try to find a clear day so you can enjoy the landscape. While I brought a pair of Yaktrax, I found the trail wasn’t icy enough to necessitate their use, though they certainly don’t hurt for some extra traction. Dress in layers!!! It’s cold and windy at the top.

Sulphur Mountain hike: Sulphur Mountain Trail is a 6.3 mile (10.1 km) switchback out-and-back trail which takes you to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. Not only are you rewarded with sweeping views, you also get to indulge in the warmth and food offered at the Banff Gondola, also located at the summit. During the winter, hikers can take the Sulphur Mountain Gondola down the mountain for free (making the hike 3.1 miles). Other times the gondola is quite expensive. Newly renovated inside, the gondola building has three restaurants, a theater, gift shop and interactive exhibits. Outside, traverse the boardwalks to Sanson’s Peak and grab some photos at the observation deck. This place is seriously a luxury experience on top of a mountain. The day I hiked, the observation deck was open late for a star-gazing event, so after reaching the summit in the early afternoon I refueled and explored all the facility has to offer. The views from the observation deck at night are twice as awe-inspiring, with an infinite blanket of stars above, but the cold is absolutely mind and body numbing - which made it impossible to photograph for more than a few minutes as a time. I took the gondola back down and caught the Roam bus back into town. Yaktrax or crampons are highly recommended for this hike!

Hot springs: Banff Upper Hot Springs is located at the same parking lot for the Sulphur Mountain trail head. The name is a bit of a misnomer, as this hot spring is actually a pool pumped with thermal water from Sulphur Mountain, but that doesn’t change the fact that the views are amazing! Admission is $8.30 CAD per person, and the facility has locker and shower rooms, a cafe and gift shop. This is a perfect activity for after a long hiking day; the hot water feels amazing on the muscles and the crisp air after getting out is insanely refreshing. (I was really dreading getting out, assuming I’d turn into an icicle, but it really felt amazing!) Route 1 on the Roam bus stops here.

Lake Louise: It is an outright crime to go to Banff and not visit Lake Louise, located 40 minutes northwest of Banff. I booked a ‘Lake Louise Winterland Tour’ through White Mountain Adventures which included transportation, a side trip to Kootenay National Park in BC to walk along Marble Canyon, snowshoeing at Lake Louise, and a super knowledgeable local with endless fun facts. At Lake Louise you’ll find the magnificent Chateau Lake Louise (various dining and shopping options inside), ice skating, horse drawn sleigh rides, and incredible views of the Victoria Glacier.

Window shop: Leave a couple of hours one day to stroll through town and visit all the charming little shops. If you’re obsessed with Christmas, you have to stop by The Spirit of Christmas.


Disclaimer: I cannot stress enough how important it is to have proper gear if you plan to visit in the winter; the cold is no joke here. On my last day, it was -13 degrees F (-25 C) in town, -25 F (-32 C) with the wind chill. Beyond the obvious gear, I suggest a solid base layer, wool socks, a snow or hiking boot, Yaktrax or crampons (which can be rented in town), a good pair of gloves and a scarf. I found myself de-layering mid-hike but needing those layers back on once at the summit. You’ll have a jolly good time reveling in the cold with everybody else if you come prepared!